I asked our guide, Sharif, if he thought that western women were crazy, and got an astounding yes! I’m sure our life seems weirder to them than theirs does to us.

Ghulam and our guide Sharif met us with an armful of roses, a bouquet for each of us. Alison and I met eyes and smiled realizing that there were some benefits to the roles of women in this culture to balance the deficits!

Pretty normal city really, way more structured and organized than India, a little like Washington, DC in a strange way - a bit modern, starchy and lacking Mugal architecture.